This is the NodeMCU ESP32 we are using as part of our Driver Control Unit (DCU). It provides Wi-Fi connectivity and Bluetooth Low Energy sensing to enable automatic driver profile selection using BLE tags and Smartphones.

Ordered the reduction gearbox for the MX-5e from Inductive Autoworks in the USA, with an adapter plate to fit our Nissan Leaf motor.

We have sold the 1.6 engine from the MX-5e but we still have the auto box and torque converter to sell.

We have had to buy quite a few tools in recent months and this crawler board was delivered today. It just makes working under the MX-5e so much easier.

Removed the wiring loom from the engine bay and weighed it at 4.2kg. We ended up cutting it at the bulkhead entry points with some bolts croppers. We have no plans to re-use it other than a few of the connectors.

We have almost completed the removal of everything from the engine bay. The remaining bits need cabin access to remove them, then we plan to remove the fromt subframe.

A quick bit of fabrication this morning. We need to get the front of the car supported on axle stands in order to remove the front sub-frame. We needed a flatter top to them though, to enable our slotted trolley jack pucks to sit nicely. We have seen 'pucks' designed for axle stands but, we couldn't find any that fitted ours and were also in stock. Fortunately we have a chop/mitre saw that can cut through pretty much anything 😎

A pair of these axle stands will support the front of the MX-5e whilst we finish the restoration and fitting of the new sub-frame and suspension parts. These don't quite go higher enough for our needs, so they will sit on some hardwood blocks to raise them up another 20cm. For extra safety we also have second pair of axle stands under the car as a fail safe.

Making really good progress with the NodeMCU ESP32 as part of the Driver Control Unit (DCU). We now have it reliably detecting BLE tags in close proximity and using them to enable a personalised driving experience. This will soon include keyless entry and start.

As part of the personalisation we are also looking at customised interior lighting and we are currently using these WS2812B/5050 addressable RGB LEDs for out testing.

With the nights drawing in we need better lighting in the garage to keep working on the MX-5e. This mains powered LED lamp is super bright.

We have to remove all the old underseal from the bottom of the MX-5e in order to treat all the rust and then add some Buzzweld "Rust Encapsulator Chassis Primer" and new underseal. Removing it is ther only way to find where the underseal has failed and rust has crept underneath it. An angle grinder and these wire brushes make the job much simpler and this major job starts tomorrow.

Spent the morning removing the underseal on one side of the car. It's really messy and time consuming. This is what it looked like before we started work on the car. You can clearly see some rust but, we are more interested in the rust that you cannot see.

Some of the metal 'rail' that runs the length of the car has been squashed before we got the car. This is going to be massaged back into shape before we appply several new protective coatings.

After a whole morning we had made some decent progress on just one side of the car. There is still some way to go though. You need a quality face mask and face shield and I wear ear plugs too.

As you can see, we have removed all the pipes running the length of the car, to get full and unfettered access. We don't need the fuel lines and the rear brake line has been kept aside.

We have a big delivery from BOFI Racing this week, which included new front upper and lower ball joints.

We also received a complete set of front and rear bushes by Energy Suspension.

It is nice to spend some time putting stuff together, to go back on the car. We are readying the new front sub-frame and suspension arms, so that we can remove the old ones and fit these once the refurb underneath is complete.

Another morning spent under the MX-5e removing the old underseal. We have now also finished refurbishing the driveshafts that came with the stronger differential.

Spend another morning cleaning off the underseal on both side of the car and tidying it up. This is the right side.

This is the left side. We have a bit more work to do yet but, we can user a small and more precise tool going forward. The next step is to then treat the rust.

We reached the point where we needed to support the front of the car on axle stands, to remove the front sub-frame. This gives us full access to all the bits that need treating. This requires the coilovers and brake lines to be disconnected, before undoing the four rear 14mm nuts and the four main 17mm nuts that hold it in place.

This wide angle view of the underside shows how remarkably little rust there is on this 1992 Eunos Roadster. By the time we have finished it will look like new.

Once we have treated the rust, we are using this rust encapsulating primer by Buzzweld. A quality undercoat will then be applied over this.

Finished cleaning up the floor and deconstructed the old front sub-frame. Also did some more work tidying up the engine bay. We are going to need to take the front bumper and other bits off the car, to get to all the bits that need restoring. Some of the ball joints were being very stubborn, so we soaked them with Plusgas and left them overnight.

We finally got the front uprights removed, ready to go back onto the new front sub-frame and suspension arms. Started treating the rust on the floor today, ready for the Buzzweld primer to go on next.

The upper front ball joints are press fit and we don't have access to a press to fit them. Took them to my local garage and they installed them for us for a £10 donation to their team Christmas fund.

We have been busy painting the floor with the BuzzWeld primer. After three coats both sides are looking good. We have more to do at the front but, this can't progress until the engine bay is completely empty.

With the engine bay completely empty, we could trial fit the iBooster for the first time. It's going to fit easily and the four mounting bolts have a very similar pattern to the existing brake servo.

Once the engine bay is done, we have the sub-frame and a complete set of parts to go back on the car.

To confirm our measurements and to be used as a drilling template, we 3D printed a plate to match the iBooster mountings.

Loads of progress on tidying up the engine bay and treating any rust found, so that we can apply the first coat of primer. We have literally removed everything from plastic clips, to cables and all the wiring. We are basically respraying the front end of the car inside and out. The wings, bonnect and bumper will be taken off for the spray painting.

The iBooster installation project progressed today, with the holes drilled and the first trial fitment. It sits nicely, with the outlet ports in just the right place and all connectors easily accessible.

We are very close to being able to respray the engine bay now. The cleaning and rust treatment is nearly complete. For a 1992 car, there is remarkably little rust. You can look up inside the front chassis legs and see the original paintwork intact and just a little bit of dust.